Installing a Drop Ceiling Can Be a Budget-Friendly Option If You DIY It—Here's How (2024)

Equipment / Tools

Materials

How to Install a Drop Ceiling

1. Plan the Grid Orientation

   Measure the length of each wall and mark the center point of each wall. Plan for the grid's main support beams to run perpendicular to the joists of the ceiling above.

   Tip

   If installing on a finished drywall ceiling, run a stud finder slowly across the ceiling to learn the orientation of the joists.

2. Determine Wall Molding Height

   Measure the height of the lowest protrusion on the ceiling. Add another 2-1/2 inches down (or per project specs) to arrive at the height of the ceiling. Mark this height on the wall. Turn on the rotary laser level and aim the line on the wall reference point. The laser will strike a line around the entire room perimeter.

   Tip

   If not using a rotary level, drive a nail in the wall at the desired height at one end of the wall. Drive another nail at the opposite end of the wall at the same height. Snap a chalk line between the two nails. Continue for the remaining walls.

3. Install the Wall Moldings

   Find the location of the wall studs with the stud finder. Mark the center point of each stud. Attach the wall moldings to the wall at the stud locations, matching the level of the rotary laser line. Continue around the rest of the room. Cut wall moldings with the tin snips or with a hacksaw.

4. Mark the Joists

   Drive a nail at each wall's center point marked earlier. The nails should be at the top of the wall, at the height of the joists. Run a chalk snap line across to the opposite end of the room, from one center point to the center point on the other side. Snap a line across the bottom of all of the joists. Repeat the process out from the center and continue marking parallel lines 2 feet apart from each other with the chalk snap line.

5. Attach the Joist Brackets

   Attach each joist bracket to an attachment point, indicated by the snaplines marked earlier. Some brackets screw into the bottom of the joist. Other types are nailed to the side of the joist (the ceiling must be open for this).

6. Attach the Hangers

   Insert hanger wires through the openings of the joist brackets. Make sure that the hooked end of each hanger wire is facing the floor.

   Place each wire about midway up; precise adjustment will come later. Excess wire at the top should be bent down, not cut. Hooked ends should be parallel to the joists.

7. Attach the Center Support Beam

   Attach one of the support beams to the hanger wires running down the center of the room. Attach support beams end-to-end by snapping them together. Make sure that the ends of the center beam rest on top of the wall moldings.

   Tip

   The main support beams hang from the hanger wires and carry the weight of the ceiling tiles. The cross tees separate the ceiling tiles.

8. Level the Main Support Beam

   Level the center support beam up or down along its entire length. Wire hangers may need to be twisted three times to hold them in place. Some easy-fit wires adjust up or down by squeezing the joist bracket together.

   Continue hanging and leveling the rest of the support beams. All beams must be level with each other and with the wall moldings.

9. Attach the Cross Tees

   Snap cross tees between parallel rows of support beams. Start at the center and work outward for symmetry. Occasionally check for square. If an opening isn't square, usually a cross tee has not been snapped into the corresponding slot on the adjacent support beam.

   Tip

   Cross tees are 2-foot lengths and have tabs at each end. They should not be cut.

10. Install the Ceiling Tiles

    Place the ceiling tiles in the grid. Starting near the center, lift a ceiling tile above the grid and insert it diagonally through one of the grid openings. Continue outward, installing full tiles. When you reach a border, measure the border opening with a tape measure and cut a ceiling tile to size with a utility knife.